Archive | October 2022

Stitched Adornments

Vintage Floral Embroidery

Vintage Floral Embroidery

Floral embroidery is a descriptive term that was used for both thread embroidery (silk, wool or chenille); and ribbonwork flowers (a piece of ribbon or fabric that was stitched with a needle and thread). The flowers were arranged in sprays, or as a single bud on men’s waistcoats, ladies gowns, shawls and other accessories. Popular stitches for the embroideries were satin, long and short, and stem. The chain stitch that could also be worked with a tambour needle is often used as the only stitch in the design.

Ribbon work flowers such as aerophane or crepe floral embroidery (used in the late 19th century) had the details of leaves and stems stitched in with thread embroidery. The ribbon, a thin silk gauze or crepe would be cut then gathered with stitches to form each petal of the flower. Narrow silk “China” ribbons were available in shaded colors, and were first used in ribbon work floral embroidery. This narrow silk ribbon could also be threaded into a large eyed needle and stitched into flower shapes (usually a straight stitch) with added silk thread embroidered accents. The combination of ribbonwork flowers and silk ribbon embroidery gave the design dimension. The top image is from a satin purse, with the ribbonworked flowers and leaves of stitched chenille. A gift from my husband for my birthday, probably circa early 1900’s. It is incredible in person.

Vintage Floral Sewing Bag

Vintage Floral Sewing Bag

The second image with the whimsical floral vignettes was made, I believe as a sewing or knitting bag, but I use it as a purse, circa 1940’s judging from the fabrics used. Some of the flowers are made with ribbon, some with fabric scraps, some with added felt details. Primitive embroidery and beading were used to enhance the floral sections. I found this lovely treasure on eBay, and I adore it.

Happy Stitching! ~Christen

Vintage at Heart: class/tutorial

Vintage at Heart: 1 lesson/ $25.00

vintageatheartThese hearts are a great way to mix the old with the new, and they are a great project that can be completed in a few hours. Bring your stash of vintage and new buttons, a bit of fabric and voila you have made an heirloom that can be treasured for years to come

heart broochLace and bits of ribbon can also be added in for extra touches. Finishing options for a pin will be covered and suggestions for an ornament and wall hanging will be discussed.

Bonus Handout: What is in Your Button Box? and Dating Buttons by Materials and Styles. All of us have a stash, and it is fun to find out just what is in that stash!

Skill Level Beginning: hand-sewing and embroidery knowledge needed

Class Information

This class can be purchased at any time, there is no set schedule. The class can be ordered by contacting Christen: thestoreonthecorner@gmail.com. She will send you an invoice through PayPal.

Once the class is paid for, the supply list and handout/s will be sent out.

A high-speed internet connection is recommended, and you must have basic computer and internet skills. You will need to be able know how to download and save a document to your computer’s hard drive, open it, and print out a copy.

You can contact Christen with any questions pertaining to the class/class information throughout the length of the class.

Class fees will not be refunded.

Happy Stitching! ~Christen

Friday’s Favorites: Magical Masks and Wands

I have been creating wearable garments for many years. I always have fabric, beads, and treasures left over from those projects, so many of them have additional accessories, such as masks and wands. What better time of year to share some of these with you!

Moonlit Sea was made for a vest called Chandos Summer Storm.

The base of the mask is pieced from left over fabrics that were used on the vest. The base was then embroidered and embellished with shisha mirrors, glass beads, ceramic and metal charms, old earrings, carved bone and shell pieces, and ribbon.

Kalahari Spirit Dancer was made for an ensemble with the same name. The ensemble includes a jacket, a vest, a skirt and a purse.

For the mask, I pieced fabric onto cardboard, then glued shisha mirrors and strands of glue to cover the raw edges. I applied gold leaf to the glue just as it was drying. I have added all sorts of charms and talismans, that have given the piece it’s own spirit.

Madame Butterfly mask was made for a jacket with the same name.

The handle is made from a piece of drift wood that I spray painted. The base of the mask is pieced and machine stitched with metallic threads. It is embellished with fabric yo-yos, shisha mirrors, beads, charms, old earrings, carved bone and shell pieces, and ribbon.

Polgara’s Mask was made with an old tree root that I found. The rounded parts of the root, resembled a mask. I added another piece of wood for the handle.

I embellished the mask with a vintage pheasant feather piece that was attached to an old hat. In addition, I added ribbonwork flowers, vintage millinery glass pods, velvet ribbon, and a tassel to complete the piece.

White Shell Woman was made for one of my first wearable garments, by the same name.

The base is a piece of driftwood that I sanded and sprayed with shellac. Bits of gathered pieces from nature include coral spines, dried pods, shells, and driftwood. Beads, bells and ribbon complete the design.

All Friday’s Favorites posts.

Enjoy your haunts this month, and always! Happy Stitching to you! ~Christen

Bead Embroidery Tools

  • 6” clear quilter’s ruler
  • Air-erasable or water soluble pen: to mark embroidery lines
  • Bead scoop or teaspoon: use for picking up beads
  • Bead thimble: to pick up beads
  • Bead threads: Silamide, Nymo
  • Fast2mark Embroidery Stencils (by C&T Publishing)
  • Gauge to measure larger beads
  • Magnifier to see those tiny treasures
  • Needles: beading long and short, small sharps, cotton darner
  • Needle gripper: to pull the needle through layers of fabric
  • Perle cotton: to sew buttons or charms in place
  • Pincushion
  • Scissors: fabric and embroidery
  • Segmented dish: to organize all your treasures
  • Sewing thread: to sew buttons in place
  • Small crochet hook or awl: use to take knots out of beading thread
  • Synthetic bead wax: use to condition thread
  • Thermal bead mat: use to keep beads from sliding around work surface
  • Thimble
  • Thread Zap II pen: to burn thread close to the knot

Happy Stitching to you! ~Christen

PS: If you are looking for inspiration or ideas, check out my PDF Classes and books.

Bead Embroidery Basics

Beading Threads

Silamide and Nymo are the beading threads that I use for bead embroidery and bead woven stitches.

  • Choose a color that is neutral to the fabric and to the beads and embellishments.
  • Cut a 3 yard length for bead embroidery.
  • Cut 1 yard length for bead woven stitches.
  • When used for bead embroidery the thread is used double with a knotted tail.
  • When used for bead woven stitches, the thread is usually used single.

Beading Needles

Beading needles are fine and thin and are most commonly found in sizes 10-13 (the larger the number the larger the needle). I prefer the John James brand of needles. They come in both a short and long length. I prefer to use the long needles for both bead embroidery and bead woven stitches, but I find that most people choose what works for them.

Note: A small sharps needle can also be used, on seed beads 10° or larger.

Threading the Needle and Waxing

  1. Cut the end of the thread so that it is straight across.
  2. Cut the thread according to the suggestions above.
  3. Hold the end of the thread close to the eye of the needle and insert the thread an inch or so beyond the eye.
  4. If you are working with the thread doubled, fold the length in half, with the middle of the thread at the eye of the needle; match the tails together. Follow the remaining steps.
  5. Place the eye of the needle next to the wax; pull the thread firmly over the wax.
  6. Place the eye of the needle at your forefinger and close your thumb over the thread. Pull the thread through your fingers to merge the two threads together.
  7. Knot the ends together.

Note: The thread in bead woven stitches is not knotted, the thread is woven between the beads to secure the thread.

Tips on Waxing

The goal of waxing the thread is to keep the two threads together, but not to have so much wax that you have clumps in the thread which will end up on the fabric.

  • A clean “used” toothbrush can be brushed across the surface of the beads and to remove unwanted wax build up on the surface of the fabric.
  • If the thread does not stay together after the first pass through the wax, then re-wax the thread.
  • When removing the thread from the needle, cut the thread close to the eye then pull the threads out of the eye. This will prevent a wax build up in the eye of the needle.

Happy Stitching to you! ~Christen

PS: If you are looking for inspiration or ideas, check out my PDF Classes and books.

BEADS, Glorious Beads

The, beads, those tiny, shiny little treasures!

Types of Beads and Sizes

Seed Beads: round seed beads come in sizes 5° – 18°, some vintage beads can be found as small as 24°. These are used in bead embroidery, bead woven stitches, and beaded jewelry.

Triangle and 3-cut Beads: Triangular beads have 3 sides, and come in sizes 6° – 15°. Cut beads are round with one or several sides squared off, they come in sizes 8° – 15°. These can be used in the same ways that seed beads can be used.

Bugle Beads and Square Beads: Bugle beads are long and cylindrical, and come in sizes 2mm-20mm. Square beads have four sides and come in sizes 4° – 15°. These beads can be used in bead embroidery, bead woven, and beaded jewelry.

Larger Beads: Larger beads come in sizes 2mm and larger. These can be used in bead embroidery stitches, bead woven stitches, and beaded jewelry.

Embellishments

Charms: Charms come in a variety of sizes, shapes, colors, and materials. These can be used bead embroidery stitches, and beaded jewelry.

Buttons and More: Buttons can add that extra bit of sparkle, or create a special design element. Chips, discs, and pailettes can also be used to create interest. These can be used bead embroidery, and beaded jewelry.

Happy Stitching to you! ~Christen

PS: If you are looking for inspiration or ideas, check out my PDF Classes and books.

Working with Embroidery Threads and Ribbons

Embroidery is one of my most favorite pastimes. I enjoy both the process of creating and being able to pass on my knowledge through teaching and writing. Here are some tips that I hope you find useful.

crazy pieced base with embroidery

Cut Lengths

Keep your threads at a minimal length, so that the fibers do not break down, or tangle.

  • Embroidery threads: 18″
  • Silk embroidery ribbon: 16″
  • Metallic threads: 16″

Threading the Needle

  • When threading the needle, hold the end of the thread close to the eye of the needle, insert this end directly into the eye.
  • Always cut the end of the thread straight across the grain.
  • Pinch the tip of the thread and/or wet the tip of the thread.
  • Wet the eye of the needle, the moisture will attract the thread.
  • A needle threader can also be used for floss or perle cotton.
  • Perhaps a magnifier glass with a light source will help.
  • Hire a teenager that has great eyesight to thread your needles. (Don’t laugh; I used to do this for a dear friend of mine!)

Knots

  • Once the needle is threaded, I knot the tail. After I work a row of stitches, I knot the thread on the wrong side and cut the thread. I then make a knot in the thread, ready for the next row of stitches.
  • Another option is to tack the thread at the beginning and end of a row of stitches. Make a tack stitch into the foundation of muslin or interfacing (not through the entire piece). Take another tack stitch next to the first, pulling the thread to make a loop. Insert the needle through the loop and pull the knot closed.

Thread and Ribbon Specifics

Perle Cotton

When working with a ball of perle cotton, the loose end of thread will be found wrapped horizontally around the ball. This end is usually tucked under several layers of wrapped thread, so pull gently to find the end. Thread the needle with the loose end, and then cut off the amount needed.

When working with a skein of perle cotton, first remove any paper wrappers or tags. Untwist the skein and find the knot, then use one of the following suggestions.

  • Cut the knot of thread and wrap the length of the skein over a Stitch Bow thread holder. Tie the one end to the loop on the Stitch Bow and place the wrapper with the color # on the small rectangular portion of the holder. Take the loose end and cut off 18″ of thread, thread this onto the needle.
  • Cut through the entire skein at the knot, and tie into a loose knot to hold the threads together. Pull one thread out from the knot at a time, cut the length into two 18″ pieces. Select one piece and thread this onto the needle.

Floss

When working with a skein of floss, the mystery is always finding the tail without creating a big ball of knots. In most cases the tail closest to the paper wrapper listing the color#, will come out of the skein easily with no snarls. Pull out the tail and cut off 18″ of thread.

Another option is to remove both of the paper wrappers from the skein and slip the skein over a Stitch Bow thread holder. Tie the inner loose end to the loop on the Stitch Bow and place the wrapper with the color # on the small rectangular portion of the holder. Take the loose end and cut off 18″ of thread.

In most cases you will be working with a portion of the 6-strand length of floss. The number of strands you will use is up to you and your design. I usually use 3 strands, if a smaller stitch is needed then 2 strands. Here is how to split the threads:

  1. Hold onto the cut length of thread with one hand between your thumb and forefinger.
  2. Hold the remaining amount in the other hand, between forefinger and middle finger.
  3. Hold the length loosely in the same hand, between your thumb and ring finger.
  4. Pull your hands apart slowly to release the strands from the skein, let the thread flow between your thumb and ring finger.
  5. Choose the amount that you want to work with, 2 or 3 strands, and set the remaining group aside.
  6. Working with your chosen group, separate each thread individually, then reassemble these back together and thread this length onto the needle.

Silk Embroidery Ribbons

Whether you are working with a spool, reel or loose length, cut short 16″ of ribbon off. Then follow the following directions to knot the ribbon.

Beginning Knot

  1. Thread the ribbon through the eye of the needle, leaving a 2″ tail. Pierce the ribbon with the needle 1/4″ above the end of the tail.
  2. Pull the length of ribbon to snug the ribbon up to the eye.

Tail Knot

  1. Thread the needle through the tail with a straight stitch. Pull the ribbon through the stitch until only a small loop of ribbon is left.
  2. Thread the needle through the loop and pull the ribbon to form a knot.

Option: If you do not want to make a tail knot, then thread the needle through the fabric first, then hand stitch the tail in place with sewing thread.

Metallic Threads

Work with a short 16″ length, to minimize fraying on the ends.

  1. Fold over about 5 ” of the length of thread to make a small loop.
  2. Thread the loop through the needle.
  3. Insert the tip of the needle into the loop.
  4. Leaving a short tail, pull the length of thread to tighten the loop around the eye of the needle.

Finger Frame

All of the fabric bases have some form of stabilizer, so that I do not have to use a wooden or plastic frame. It is still important though to keep the fabric taught so that the embroidered stitches do not get pulled too tightly which will pucker and distort the fabric. I create a frame by holding the fabric between my fingers.

  1. Using your non-dominant hand, pinch the fabric between your forefinger on top and middle finger underneath.
  2. Leave a space of fabric, and then pinch the fabric between your thumb on top and ring finger underneath.

Happy Stitching to you! ~Christen

PS: If you are looking for inspiration or ideas, check out my PDF Classes and books.

Tips for Successful Embroidery

Well, that just makes sense!

  • Practice, I do! If I could pass on one good suggestion, it would be to practice. Keep a piece of fabric and ball of thread on your work table, so that you can use it to familiarize yourself with a stitch, or to learn a new one.
  • Always wash your hands before working with the fabric base, embroidery threads and ribbons.
  • I keep a piece of cardboard with holes punched out to organize the unused portion of strands of floss. This way you will always be able to find the second half of the split skein.
  • Take notes while you are embroidering, such as how many wraps the French knots were, or how many strands of floss you used for a stitch.
  • Think of a mistake as a design opportunity that you had not thought of yet. Once you repeat a mistake, it becomes another element in the design.

Thread and Ribbon Specifics

Pearl Cotton and Cotton Floss

  • All the embroidery threads that you work with will naturally twist. Periodically hold the fabric base upside down then let the needle dangle down, the thread or ribbon will unwind.
  • To keep the threads from tangle free or from knotting, run the length of twisted thread or floss over Thread Heaven or Thread Magic. Repeat this if needed.
  • The loose end of thread can sometimes wrap around the working thread and create a knot. If you periodically cut the loose end this should help.
  • Keep the threads clean and dust free by storing them in a bag with a zip-lock closure. I have a separate bag for each project, and a smaller bag for the left-over odds and ends of for each project. You may never know when you need just a few inches to finish off a stitch.

Silk Embroidery Ribbon

  • Silk embroidery ribbon has a tendency retain the fold from the packaging. Slightly moisten the length that you are working with, and then gently pass the ribbon over the upright plate of a warm iron.
  • When embroidering with silk embroidery ribbons, in most cases the ribbon should lie flat against the fabric, however, the ribbon can twist once it is pulled through the fabric. If the ribbon is concave, hold the ribbon next to the fabric then stitch. If the ribbon is convex, rub the ribbon until it is flat, or concave.

Metallic Threads

  • Use a pair of craft scissors to cut the metallic threads, trims, or lace, as the metallic finish can dull your good embroidery scissors.

Working with Colorways

Ombre, variegated and hand-dyed colorways can lend a unique touch to any embroidered design. When working with this thread I try not to think out the color way too seriously, I just cut the thread from the skein or ball and begin stitching. If it is imperative to have a similar colorway for balance, try these suggestions:

  • For floss: split the skein of floss in half, and work one side, then the other.
  • For perle cotton, cut the thread in equal lengths until you find a repeat.

You can also create your own unique color blend of by combining the same size or different sizes of perle cotton, or combining perle cotton with cotton floss. Cut a longer length than you would normally use for a single strand of thread.

  • Combine 2 or more colors of the same or different weight of perle cotton threads into a large eye needle like a chenille needle.
  • Cut 3 colors of floss, separate 1 or more strands from each length. Combine the lengths and thread these into the needle. For 3 strands, use and embroidery needle; if you are using more than one strand for each color, then change to a cotton darner or crewel needle.

Happy Stitching to you! ~Christen

PS: If you are looking for inspiration or ideas, check out my PDF Classes and books.

Sewing Basics

For all of my embroidered projects I start with a base of fabric. This can be a whole cloth, strip-pieced, or crazy-pieced base. Here are a few tips that I use when I work.

Well, that just makes sense!

  • I pre-wash all my fabrics so that the chemicals and accumulated dust are removed.
  • If vintage laces or handkerchiefs need to be cleaned, use a mild hand soap and water: dry flat on a towel and lightly press, if needed.
  • When working with any stabilizer, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s directions.
  • Use Sulky KK2000 Temporary Spray Adhesive to keep fabric in place while pinning and stitching.
  • Use a glue stick to temporarily keep lace, ribbons and trims in place while stitching.
  • Serge or zigzag the outer raw edges of the fabric base to prevent fraying while you are work the stitches.
  • Use Fray Check to help keep lace, ribbons, and trims from fraying.
  • Trims, appliques, and buttons can be stitched to cover raw edges that are not caught in a seam.

Happy Stitching to you! ~Christen

PS: If you are looking for inspiration or ideas, check out my PDF Classes and books.

All About the Needle

As a teacher of embroidery everyone, I mean everyone asks me if the needle makes a difference. YES is the correct answer!

The purpose of the needle is to make a hole in the fabric big enough for the thread to pass through the fabric, but not so big that the thread does not cover the hole. Needles are sized from low to high, the lower the number the larger the needle. The size of perle cotton, silk embroidery ribbon, or quantity of floss should correspond to the size of the eye of the needle.

  1. Beading, a thin, short or long needle with a thin long eye: use for all types of beading threads
  2. Chenille needle, a medium-length needle with a long eye that is wider than the shaft; use for silk embroidery ribbon, or for multiple threads
  3. Cotton darner, a long needle with an oval eye: use for twisted threads
  4. Crewel (also called embroidery needles), a medium-length needle with a long to medium eye: use for twisted threads
  5. Embroidery, a fine, thin needle with a long eye: use for stranded floss
  6. Milliners, a long needle with the shaft the same width the length of the needle with a small, rounded eye: use for twisted and floss threads
  7. Sharps, a shorter, fine needle with a small eye: use for sewing thread and for bead embroidery

Many students get confused once the needle is out of the package, and the name and size of the needle is lost. Here are a couple of tips.

  • To help you remember which needle is used for what thread, thread each needle with the type of thread, and keep this in a needle keep, a piece of fabric, or an index card. Then, write the name of the needle on the fabric or card.
  • To keep your needles organized, write the name of each type of needle in one pie section of a tomato pin cushion (and try to remember to put them in the correct pie space).

Happy Stitching to you! ~Christen

PS: If you are looking for inspiration or ideas, check out my PDF Classes and books.